How to Make It
Preheat the oven to 450°. Season the veal chops on both sides with salt and pepper. In a large ovenproof skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in the olive oil. When the foam subsides, add 2 of the veal chops and cook over moderate heat until nicely browned, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer the chops to a plate. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter to the skillet and brown the remaining 2 veal chops; remove from the heat.
Return the veal chops from the plate to the skillet, along with any accumulated juices. Roast the chops in the oven for 5 minutes, or until just rosy in the center. Transfer the chops to a warmed platter and cover loosely with foil.
Set the skillet over moderately high heat. Add the green peppercorns and the Calvados. Carefully ignite the Calvados with a long match. When the flames die down, add the chicken stock and boil for 1 minute. Add the cream and simmer until the sauce thickens, about 3 minutes. Season the sauce lightly with salt and pepper and pour over the veal chops. Serve at once.
Wine Recommendation: A full-bodied California Chardonnay with hints of oak, such as the 1997 Morgan Reserve, will echo the richness of the sauce. Or seek out a silky-textured Pinot Noir with some spice for contrast, like the 1996 Laurier.