Resist the urge to pile on any of the usual toppings—lettuce, tomato, ketchup. "The port is your condiment," explains Umami Burger's Adam Fleischman.Tip: Burger purists handle ground meat as little as possible; over-working the beef can create a tight, meatloaf texture.
In a small saucepan, cook the port over moderate heat until reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 15 minutes.
Heat a cast-iron griddle until very hot. Form the meat into four 4-by-1-inch patties without packing too tightly. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add the patties to the griddle, cover with a roasting pan and cook over moderately high heat for 4 minutes, until very crusty. Flip the patties and cook, covered, for 2 minutes longer; top with the Stilton and cook uncovered for 1 minute. Transfer the patties to a plate and sprinkle with the umami dust, let rest for 2 minutes and set on the buns. Drizzle with the reduced port, top with the buns and serve.
The Secret Seasoning To make simplified umami dust, use a spice grinder to pulse 3 tablespoons bonito flakes, 1/2 ounce crumbled dried kombu, and 1/2 ounce dried shitake mushrooms into a powder. Umami dust will soon be available at umamiburger.com.