Toasted Penne with Chicken Sausage

First, think risotto, not pasta. Your brain will thank you.

Bring the stock to a simmer in a saucepan. Hold it hot. You'll be using it...like...for... risotto (but for pasta).

Place a high-sided 12-inch skillet (probably your largest, right there, stored underneath everything) on medium heat.

COOK THE SAUSAGE AND ONION

Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the skillet. Add the sausage and onion. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sausage is done and onion is golden brown.

Remove sausage mixture with a slotted spoon, leaving drippings in pan. Set aside.

TOAST THE PENNE

Return the pan to medium heat and add the remaining olive oil. Swirl into an even layer. Give it about 30 seconds. If the oil starts to smoke too fast, turn down the heat--we want this to be a slow, even heat.

Add the dry pasta to the pan. Shake. Toss. Stir. Tumble. Observe the transformation.

The more controlled the heat, the more evenly the pasta will be toasted. This is a matter of taste. I happen to like the pasta to be unevenly toasted, even charred, in places. It makes for a more complex dish, particularly against a slightly bitter vegetable such as broccoli rabe.

When the pasta has transformed in color from its original pale khaki color to something resembling a better beer, about 5 minutes, add the sausage mixture. Sauté for about 2 minutes.

HYDRATE THE PASTA

Now, add a cup of stock. Stir. Stir. You'll see the starch begin to integrate with the pasta water. That's a good thing.

Lower the heat to a slight simmer, and keep stirring.

Reduce the liquid until it is almost fully absorbed, about 5 minutes. It will look like you threw a pat of butter or two into finished pasta.

Add stock 1 cup at a time, stirring all the while and observing for the right amount of reduction.

Repeat this step progressively until you have creamy, saucy, tender pasta (about 30 minutes total).

SEASON AND FINISH

Now add the salt. Stir. You may not use all of the stock if you've simmered slowly. You may need a cup of water or so if you let it bubble more aggressively. Either way, it will be spectacular.

If you've opted to do the broccoli rabe thing, add it now, gently stirring and folding to incorporate, until the vegetable is warmed throughout. Taste it.

Finish with lemon juice, chiles, and grated cheese.