A sweet (but not cloying) precursor to the martini, this cocktail dates back to the 1880s. At Alfred's Steakhouse in San Francisco, the bar manager, Aaron Paul, scales up the booze and chills it ahead of time, so it's simpler to serve a crowd. For just 1 cocktail, use 2 oz. gin, 3/4 oz. vermouth, 1/4 oz. maraschino, and 2 dashes bitters.