Spiced Pear Cobbler with Ricotta-Thyme Biscuits

Drain ricotta in a cheesecloth or fine-mesh strainer 30 minutes. When ready to use, squeeze out any excess moisture. Stir thyme into ricotta; set aside.

Stir together baking powder, baking soda, cake flour, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, and 1 teaspoon of the salt into a large bowl; transfer to freezer to chill 20 minutes. Add chilled butter to bowl, and pinch pieces between your fingers to make smaller pieces until no big pieces are left. Make a well in middle of cake flour mixture. Gradually pour in 1 cup of the buttermilk while using a fork to fluff in the flour from sides of bowl until a shaggy-looking dough forms. Crumble in the thyme-ricotta, and gently incorporate with your fingers.

Scrape dough onto a lightly floured surface. Using your hands, shape dough into a 6- x 4-inch rectangle. Fold into thirds, and flatten back out with hands; repeat 2 more times, flattening dough to about 1-inch thick. Chill for 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Toss together pears and lemon juice in a large bowl; stir in melted butter and brandy. Whisk together all-purpose flour, brown sugar, ginger, allspice, and remaining 1 tablespoon granulated sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a separate bowl. Slowly stir all-purpose flour mixture into pear mixture until evenly combined. Transfer spiced pear filling to a 17- x 11-inch baking dish.

Roll chilled biscuit dough out on a lightly floured surface; cut into 2-inch squares or circles, making 10 to 12 biscuits. Arrange biscuits in a single layer over pear filling. Brush remaining 2 tablespoons buttermilk on top of biscuits. Bake in preheated oven until pear mixture is bubbling and biscuits are browned on top, about 45 minutes. Sprinkle with fresh thyme and black pepper; serve warm or at room temperature.