Spaghettini with Onions, Scallions, and Garlic

In a large deep frying pan, cook the bacon over moderate heat until crisp. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the bacon fat or, if you don't have 3 tablespoons, add enough olive oil to make up the amount. Put the pan over moderately low heat. Add the onions and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Cook, covered, for 5 minutes.

Uncover the pan and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the scallion bulbs and the garlic; cook 2 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Add the broth and bring to a simmer.

Meanwhile, in a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the spaghettini until almost done, about 9 minutes. Drain the spaghettini and add it to the simmering broth. Cook until the pasta is just done, about 3 minutes. Stir in the Parmesan and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Toss with the bacon and scallion greens.

Wine Recommendation: There are no tomatoes in this sauce, but you'll still want a red wine--the rich Parmesan needs the tannins to provide balance. Go for a basic (not Riserva) Chianti and enjoy its bright, slightly bitter-cherry and earth flavors.

Notes: Scallions, also known as green onions, are essentially an herb and a vegetable in one. The bulbs can be used like a regular onion, while the green tops make a great flavoring and garnish. In fact, the chopped tops can be used as a substitute for chives.