Cold-smoking salmon usually requires an elaborate setup. Jason Alley's brilliant trick of quickly smoking the fish, then curing it like gravlax, is a great option for the home cook.
Assemble the smoker by spreading 1/2 cup small, dry hardwood chips over the bottom of the smoker, then place the drip tray and rack directly on the chips. (To jury-rig a smoker, line a wok or disposable aluminum baking pan with heavy-duty foil and spread with dry wood chips; top with another layer of foil—to catch drips—and a rack. Cover the wok or pan by sealing it tightly with a lid or sheet of foil.)
In a well-ventilated area, set the smoker over high heat. After 1 minute, when smoke rises from all sides, put the salmon on the rack, skin side down. Cover and smoke for 20 seconds. Move off the heat; smoke for 30 seconds longer.
Set the salmon, skin side up, in a glass baking dish. Mix the salt, brown sugar, coriander and orange zest; rub the spice mix and the vodka over both sides of the salmon. Cover and refrigerate for 3 days, turning daily.
Rinse the salmon fillet and pat dry. Using a sharp knife, thinly slice the salmon on an angle, cutting toward the tail, and serve.
Stovetop smokers and wood chips can be ordered online at cameronscookware.com.