Serves 4, generously

This recipe is an adaptation of the one for Creamy Scrambled Eggs in My Bombay Kitchen: Traditional and Modern Parsi Home Cooking by Niloufer Ichaporia King. King says: "It's not hard to make scrambled eggs voluptuously creamy the French way, with lots of butter, but it's good to know that there's an alternative. You can make equally creamy eggs using a small amount of butter and a little slug of milk, about a tablespoonful per egg. (This version uses truffle oil instead of butter.) "The high-heat, short-order cook's approach to scrambling eggs doesn't work here because the goal is creamy softness. You'll be surprised by how many lovers of firm scrambled eggs are converted by this approach. You need to use a saucepan for the best results. Nonstick pans are fine, although I've seen cooks in Bombay use thin aluminum pans with great success."

How to Make It

Step 1

Heat butter in a small frying pan over medium heat until foam subsides. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they give up most of their liquid and are tender and beginning to brown. Turn out into a small bowl and set aside.

Step 2

Whisk the eggs and milk lightly together in a small 1-quart saucepan. Add the truffle oil and about 4 pinches of salt. Over low heat, stir the eggs constantly with a wooden spatula, keeping contact with the bottom of the pan. When eggs begin to come together, add mushrooms. In 5 minutes or so, the eggs will be creamy, soft, and ready to serve. Best eaten with a spoon, with brioche toasts alongside (or pile the eggs on the toast).

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