Thirteen firecracker-fierce Thai chiles blend into a sauce that is beautifully complex, with sweet, fragrant, and salty refrains along with serious heat. To tame the flame, you can use less of the Thai chiles and add extra mild bell pepper. Serve with crisp, cooling cucumber and an ice-cold beer.
Score squid by making 4 (1/2-inch) crosswise cuts in each tube.
Combine bell pepper and next 4 ingredients (through ginger) in a food processor; process until finely ground. Stir in sugar, soy, black pepper, and salt. Combine squid and 2/3 cup chile mixture in a large zip-top plastic bag; seal. Marinate in refrigerator 3 hours, turning bag occasionally. Reserve remaining 2/3 cup chile mixture for dipping sauce.
Preheat the grill to medium heat.
Remove squid from bag; discard marinade. Arrange squid in a single layer on grill rack coated with cooking spray. Grill for 2 minutes on each side or until charred and squid begins to curl around edges. Serve with reserved sauce.
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