"You can make this recipe with any kind of cheese," says Peggy Smith, co-owner of Northern California's Cowgirl Creamery. The recipe is based on one in Cowgirl Creamery Cooks (Chronicle Books), which Smith wrote with her business partner, Sue Conley. The key is to use a variety of different-textured cheeses--moist with dry, elastic with hard. Herbs are nice in this sandwich: Conley used Thai basil from her garden on the day we visited. The bread came from Della Fattoria, a terrific bakery in downtown Petaluma, not far from Conley's house.