The garnish of fried sage leaves makes a delectable crisp treat, but of course the trout is still good without it. You can usually sauté four small trout at the same time in a large frying pan, but if they're crowded, cook the fish in two pans or two batches.
How to Make It
Rinse the fish and dry the surface and the cavity of each thoroughly with paper towels. In a large nonstick frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil with 1 tablespoon of the butter over moderately high heat. Sprinkle the trout with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Put the trout in the pan and cook until golden, about 5 minutes. Turn and cook until golden on the second side and just done, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Remove; wipe out the pan.
In the same pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over moderately high heat. Add the sage leaves and cook until crisp, about 1 minute. Alternatively, add the dried sage and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Pour the oil and sage over the fish. Wipe out the pan.
Add the wine to the pan. Boil until reduced to approximately 3 tablespoons, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting and whisk in the remaining 4 tablespoons butter,1/8 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Whisk in any accumulated juices and oil from the trout. Pour the sauce around the fish and serve.
Test-Kitchen Tip: For a creamy emulsified butter sauce, don't just put the butter in the pan and let it melt; instead, stick a whisk in the cold butter and stir it around the bottom of the pan over the lowest possible heat. This way, the butter just softens into a sauce instead of melting into a puddle.
Wine Recommendation: Farm-raised trout are mild, so a pinot grigio or pinot bianco from northeastern Italy will make a superb accompaniment. A gamier wild fish can use a stronger wine such as a chardonnay.
Quick From Scratch Italian