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James Carrier
Ingredients and tradition get as much respect as wine at Trattoria Grappolo, a lively, four-year-old Italian eatery. Wine, in fact, is the traditional ingredient in the excellent risottos and seafood specialties from owners Leonardo Curti and Daniele Serra. If Leonardo's brother, Alfonso – a former baker in the family's hometown of Cariati in the Calabria region of Italy – is cooking, it might even find its way into the pizza dough for crispy creations from the wood-burning oven.
How to Make It
Step 1
To make the dough, in a large bowl, sprinkle yeast over 1 cup warm (about 110°) water. Let stand until yeast is softened, about 5 minutes. Add 2 1/2 cups flour and the salt; beat with a mixer on low speed until incorporated, then on medium-high speed until dough is stretchy, about 3 minutes.
Step 2
If using a dough hook, beat on high speed until dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. If dough is still sticky, beat in more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time.
Step 3
If kneading by hand, scrape dough onto a lightly floured board. Knead until smooth, springy, and no longer sticky, about 10 minutes. Add flour as necessary to prevent sticking.
Step 4
Divide dough in half and shape each half into a ball. Set balls on a lightly floured surface in a warm place and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Step 5
Meanwhile, make filling: In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, stir onion in 1 tablespoon olive oil often until limp and beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add radicchio and stir often until limp and beginning to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until evaporated, 10 to 12 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Let cool at least 20 minutes.
Step 6
Punch each ball of dough down and knead lightly to expel air. On a lightly floured surface, with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll each ball into a 10- to 11-inch round. Sprinkle half the mozzarella over half of each round, to within 1 inch of edge; top cheese equally with radicchio mixture. Fold the bare half of each dough round over filling, aligning edges; pinch edges to seal. Starting at fold, roll each pizza into a tight log; pinch log ends together to seal. Transfer logs, seam down, to a 12- by 15-inch baking sheet, shaping into equal-size half-rings and spacing at least 3 inches apart.
Step 7
Bake in a 425° regular or convection oven until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes.
Step 8
Meanwhile, make salad: In a bowl, mix tomatoes, basil, garlic, and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil; add salt and pepper to taste.
Step 9
With two wide spatulas, transfer each half-ring to a rimmed board or platter, fitting ends together to form a complete ring. Using a slotted spoon, mound about 2 cups tomato-basil salad in the center of the ring; set bowl with the remaining salad alongside board or platter. Cut the pizza ring into 1 1/2- to 2-inch sections and serve with salad.
Step 10
Notes: Sangiovese is a great match for this appetizer; try the Vandale
Trattoria Grappolo, Santa Ynes, California
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