Polenta with Three Scoops of Cheese and Sautéed Shiitakes

In a medium saucepan, bring the water and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil. Add the cornmeal in a slow stream, whisking constantly. Whisk in 3 tablespoons of the oil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon,until the polenta is thick, about 20 minutes. Stir in the Parmesan. Remove from the heat but cover to keep warm.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix together the ricotta, mascarpone, and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Put in the refrigerator.

In a large frying pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil with the butter over moderately high heat. Add the mushrooms, garlic, and 1/4teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until the mushrooms are golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the parsley and pepper.

Stir the polenta. It should be thick but still pourable. If it's too thick, stir in more water. You may need as much as a cup. Using a large spoon or a medium ice-cream scoop, put three mounds of the cheese mixture onto each of four plates. Ladle the hot polenta over the mounds of cheese and top with the mushrooms.

Wine Recommendation: The tannins in a red wine will be tamed by the richness of the cheese in this dish, pushing the wine's flavor to the fore. A Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello's fruitier cousin, will demonstrate this delectably.