Black and white pepper have an intense, delicious heat that, in tandem with coarse salt, makes a crisp, spicy coating for chicken wings.
Preheat the oven to 450°. Coarsely crush the black and white peppercorns in a mortar or use a heavy-bottomed skillet; stir in the salt. Put the chicken wings on a large baking sheet and toss with the pepper and salt. Roast on the top rack of the oven for 1 hour. Serve with celery sticks and the Lemon Cream.
Wine Recommendation: Tame the fiery flavors here with an Italian Pinot Grigio or an inexpensive sparkling wine. Try the bright, tangy 1998 Manlio Collavini Pinot Grigio Canlungo or the Nonvintage Mumm Cuvée Napa.