In honor of all those company-perfect casseroles found in community cookbooks, we were tempted to include a recipe for chicken tetrazzini, rumored (somewhat falsely) to have been created in Charleston for the great soprano Luisa Tetrazzini. We opted instead for Mrs. Izard's Awendaw, a creamy, richly flavored fusion of grits and spoonbread with a soufflé-like texture. It's astoundingly good, any time of day, with everything from panfried breakfast sausage to molasses grilled pork tenderloin. So good and versatile, in fact, that our Test Kitchen developed three irresistible twists. From Charleston Receipts.