Thomas McNaughton, the chef and co-owner of Flour + Water and several other restaurants in San Francisco, named this hearty, well-structured lasagna for its biggest fan--his baby daughter, Lucie. "Make this lasagna the way you like it and to fit the seasons," he says. "If you like aged Gouda, use that instead of parmesan. Or use thyme in the winter instead of basil." It's also an ideal make-ahead dish for a laid-back dinner party, since it tastes even better when assembled the day before. To keep track of ingredients as you layer the lasagna, cross each one off as you go--and don't be deterred by the longish prep time. It's worth it.