Linguine with Clams, Bacon, and Tomato

In a large stainless-steel frying pan, cook the strips of bacon over moderate heat until almost crisp. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan.

Reduce the heat to moderately low. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the wine. Stir in the bacon, tomatoes, and clam juice and bring to a simmer. Cook, partially covered, for 10 minutes. Add the clams, parsley, salt, and red-pepper flakes and simmer for 30 seconds longer. Do not cook the clams too long or they will toughen. Taste the sauce and add more salt if needed.

In a large pot of boiling, salted water, cook the linguine until just done, about 12 minutes. Return the pasta to the hot pot. Add the sauce and let sit 2 to 3 minutes so that the pasta absorbs some of the liquid.

Wine Recommendation: The full flavor of the clams and the acidity of the tomatoes are best with a straightforward, acidic white wine. The classic French shellfish wine is Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine.