This is Niloufer Ichaporia King's California-style version of an old Parsi favorite, green peas ma gos ("in meat"). The California touches are to use leeks instead of regular onions and to cook the peas for far less time than is traditional. Prep and Cook Time: about 4 hours. Notes: You can make the stew a day or two ahead and chill it (in fact, this makes removing the fat easier, since it solidifies in the refrigerator), but don't add the peas until you're ready to serve the meal. Fresh peas will taste better, but if you must use frozen, rinse off the ice crystals and add them right at the end. Serve the stew with Quick-cooked Pea Shoots and small roasted potatoes (or quinoa, barley, farro, or polenta).