Andrea's wine pick: The juicy acidity and rustic herbaceousness of a French red Côtes du Rhône will stand up to the mustardy tang of the herb crust. Look for Georges Duboeuf Côtes du Rhône 2004 ($7.99). Ask your butcher to "french" the bones for an attractive appearance. Cover bones with a strip of aluminum foil to prevent burning.
By Karen Levin; Wine pairing by Andrea Immer Robinson