Parcook the broccoli until tender-crisp and then lightly char it on the grill for smoky depth. Serve it hot, or grill it a day ahead of time and serve at room temperature (the sanest choice if it's one of several sides for steak). Alfred's Steakhouse, in San Francisco, gave us the recipe.
Fill an 8-qt. pot with 4 qts. water and add 1/2 cup kosher salt (this may seem salty, but it will season the broccoli perfectly). Bring to a boil. While water heats, cut broccoli heads into similar-size clusters of 3 or 4 florets plus stems. Add broccoli clusters to pot and cook, covered, just until bright green, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain broccoli and spread out on a towel-lined rimmed baking sheet to cool and dry off.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high (550° to 600°). If broccoli is still wet, pat dry, then grill until lightly charred on all sides, turning often, about 5 minutes. Let sit at room temperature for up to 2 hours, or chill up to 1 day.
Just before serving, put broccoli in a large bowl and toss with lemon juice, oil, chile flakes, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust seasonings if you like. Transfer to a large serving bowl or platter and serve hot or at room temperature.
Make ahead: Through step 1 or 2, up to 1 day, covered and chilled. Let come to room temperature before proceeding with step 3.
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