Eggplant, Pesto, and Goat-Cheese Pizza

Heat the oven to 450°. In a large nonstick frying pan, heat 2 1/2 tablespoons of the oil over moderately high heat. Season the eggplant with the salt. Fry one-third of the eggplant, turning, until golden, about 10 minutes. Remove. Repeat in two more batches with the remaining oil, using more if needed, and the eggplant.

Meanwhile, oil a 14-inch pizza pan or large baking sheet. Press the pizza dough onto the pan in an approximately 14-inch round or 9-by-13-inch rectangle.

Arrange the eggplant slices on the pizza crust. Sprinkle the garlic and pepper over the top. Bake for 12 minutes. Put the slices of goat cheese on the pizza, sprinkle with the Parmesan, and then dot with the pesto. Bake until the cheese begins to turn golden, about 15 minutes.

Pizza Dough: Most supermarkets carry pizza dough; look for it in the refrigerator section. Another possibility is to ask for it at your favorite pizza restaurant. Many places are willing to sell it by the pound.

Wine Recommendation: Sauvignon blanc is a remarkably versatile wine, and it's particularly delicious with goat cheese and basil. Once again, northeastern Italy is the place to look for these fresh, bracing wines.