Creamy Soft-Scrambled Eggs

Melt butter in an 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low. While butter melts, break eggs into a small bowl. Use a fork to beat them like a red-feathered step-chicken until completely blended and slightly frothy. Stir in pepper and salt.

Before the butter starts to froth, add the eggs; cook, stirring quickly and constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula or chopsticks. Be patient; keep stirring. After a few minutes, steam will rise, the eggs will thicken, and small curds will begin to form. If you start to get large curds no matter how quickly you stir, lift the pan from the burner to cool it down, stirring all the while. Cook, stirring constantly, until the eggs hold together in a glistening, custard-soft, and loose mound that can still spread slightly, like risotto. Plate and eat immediately.