Total Time
2 Hours 30 Mins
Makes about 6 cups (serving size: 1 cup)

At Pilgrimme restaurant, deep in the woods of Galiano Island in British Columbia, chef Jesse McCleery simmers big batches of this stock with leftover chunks of local raw-milk cheeses. Then he simmers cracked fermented barley in it, producing a creamy, resoundingly flavorful risotto-like porridge. The stock is also delicious on ravioli or in regular risotto, and makes an umami-rich vegetarian alternative to chicken broth.

How to Make It

Step 1

In a dry 6-qt. pot, toast coriander and caraway seeds over medium-high heat until fragrant and a shade darker, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour into a small bowl and set aside.

Step 2

Swirl in 1 tbsp. oil, reduce heat to medium, and add onion. Cook, covered, until softened and beginning to brown, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add leeks, toasted spices, peppercorns, bay leaves, and 9 cups water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, covered.

Step 3

Add cheese rinds and kelp, bring back to a simmer, and adjust heat to maintain a gentle simmer, uncovered, 1 hour, stirring now and then. Remove from heat and let stand 1 hour, covered. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve.

Step 4

*Find kombu at well-stocked grocery stores and Asian markets. Hoard your leftover cheese rinds in the freezer until you have enough to make a batch (or even a half-batch) of stock.

Step 5

Make ahead: Up to 1 week chilled; up to 3 months frozen.

Pilgrimme restaurant, Galiano Island in British Columbia

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