Buttery Roquefort Spread

Kim & Becky's Under $20 Wine Picks: 2001 Lamothe Despujols, $14.97 (375 ml. half bottle); 2001 Myrat, $17.97 (375 ml. half bottle); 2002 Doisy Vedrines, $14.97 (375 ml. half bottle), all available through PJ Wine; 212/567-5500 or pjwine.com. Expect Sauternes, made from Semillon or Sauvignon Blanc grapes, to have fresh aromas of tropical fruit and orange peel. It may also have hints of honey, saffron, and apricot. Yet the finest wines finish almost dry, often minerally. Look for Sauternes labeled "Cru Classé," indicating a consistently top-quality château.Filling celery with this spread makes for a pretty presentation--and it's so easy. Prep: 5 minutes.