Consulting chef Andrew Spurgin, San Diego: "As a child in England, I loved fire-roasted chestnuts sold on the street in winter and presented in little brown paper bags. You'd turn your fingers black from peeling every last gem. Every time I enjoy the pleasure of a chestnut, I am transported to my youth. My grandma Eve used to make a version similar to this recipe for Christmas dinner."Andrew Spurgin uses fresh chestnuts when they're in season in fall and winter. He cuts them in half and boils them quickly to soften, then pops the chestnut flesh out of the shell before roasting.