Chef Tanya Holland uses an industrial deck smoker at B-Side BBQ, her Oakland restaurant, but an ordinary backyard grill, infused with smoke from wood chunks, works fine. A charcoal grill will give you the smokiest flavor. Throughout the grilling time, your goal should be to produce lots of smoke. "That's what gives it the depth of flavor," says Holland. And don't worry about the internal temperature of the meat: "You'll finish cooking it afterward, in the oven."