All over Thailand, especially in urban areas, street-food stalls are everywhere, their sights and smells delightfully overwhelming. Chicken offerings are abundant, varied, and almost universally Mad Delicious. Four condiments are showcased at restaurants and makeshift street-side dining areas: white sugar (sweet), Thai chiles in vinegar (sour-piquant), fish sauce (salty-savory), and intensely flavorful crushed dry chile (depth-heat). In this recipe, the dipping sauce that accompanies honors the Thai condiment caddy. And the marinade on this chicken is deeply savory, welcoming generous amounts of the sauce. Eat your veggies, too, with your fingers. We left them raw.