Behind the scenes at San Francisco's Dumpling Time, which serves super-sized xiao long bao
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king-dum at dumpling time
Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

Dumpling Time, which opened in San Francisco in May, serves a twist on Shanghai-style soup dumplings (xiao long bao): a giant dumpling the size of the bamboo steamer it’s served in. They call it the King-Dum, and it comes with a fat straw to suck out the hot soup. The four-inch-wide, six-ounce dumpling, stuffed with ground pork belly and soup, sells for $8.

Edgar Agbayani, executive chef for the restaurant group that owns Dumpling Time, says he thought up the catchy name for the super-sized dumpling with some friends. “Kash Feng [the co-owner] gave me free rein with the menu from the start. The pre-requisite was that the dumpling have a thin skin, thinner than at other restaurants. I first tried making it with a charcoal bamboo skin, but the black color was too intimidating, then a green spinach skin, but decided to go with the traditional skin.”

Dumpling Time was kind enough to reveal the keys to its King-Dum on a recent visit. Here's how they make these massive soup dumplings.

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Credit: photo by sharon mcdonnell

First, the soup filling, which is chicken broth mixed with gelatin, is made the day before, cooled into big slabs, and ground into chunks.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

Flour and water is mixed so the dough reaches the desired springy consistency.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

Dumpling chef Alan Luong shapes the dough into long logs in the glassed-in prep area. Then, he cuts the dough logs into small slices.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

He rolls out the dough slices into round crepe-like shapes with a thin roller.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

He folds the soup-gelatin mix into the raw pork belly, coarsely ground into quarter-inch pieces and seasoned with salt, sugar, ginger, and chopped green onions.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

He places a round ball of pork-soup filling in the center of each round dough wrapper.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

He closes the dough wrapper and makes 18-19 pinches on the sides.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

Each King-Dum is placed in a bamboo steamer basket that fits the opening on a seven-eyed steamer, surrounded by continually running tap water.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

Check out the normal-sized soup dumplings next to the king-sized variety.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

The King-Dums steam for 12 minutes. When done, they expand to fill the entire basket.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

The King-Dum is ready. After sprinkling rose and carnation petals on top, and placing a dish under the basket to catch leaking soup, Chef Agbayani beams at Dumpling Time’s star menu item.

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Credit: PHOTO BY SHARON MCDONNELL

The proper way to eat a King-Dum: Sip the soup first. Man, it’s hot.