The Beatrice Inn's executive chef loves meat, loathes forks

EC: Angie Mar Serves an Even Fuller English Breakfast
Credit: Photo and Video by Alex Tepper

If she were were to suddenly ascend to the throne, it's likely that Angie Mar would abolish utensils and declare mandatory full English breakfast for all. While Angie Mar may not (currently) rule a nation, the executive chef at the Beatrice Inn speaks of both meat and bare-handed eating with a fervor that verges on the religious.

She was born to it. Mar’s mother lived in Oxford, and her aunt was the legendary Seattle restaurateur Ruby Chow. The family celebrated abundance—especially at mealtime, when the whole clan joyously battled over massive, bone-in cuts of meat and heaping platters of sides, forks be damned.

Though brunch is not currently served at The Beatrice Inn, on the weekends, Mar takes great glee in putting out a spread for friends, complete with giant steaks, sausages (she’s partial to boudin blanc and merguez), Scotch eggs (that’d be an egg wrapped in sausage, breaded, and deep-fried), and pork-fat-bolstered beans. Just in case a carb craving should strike, Mar is at the ready with a silver caddy full of butter, rabbit hearts and livers, and orange marmalade to slather on thick, grilled slabs of toast—a rare instance in which she allows for the use of an implement. The outcome is unexpectedly elegant.

“I love food that’s incredibly primal,” Mar says. “For me that’s all about getting beautiful, high quality, delicious meat, and highlighting that. All that really takes is salt and fire.”

Bonus: The cleanup is as simple as licking your fingers.