1. In a bowl, toss the cheese with cornstarch or flour.

2. Rub garlic halves around the inside of flameproof fondue pot or large saucepan. Discard garlic. Add wine and bring to a simmer over medium heat on stovetop, or on fondue stand set over an alcohol burner. Reduce heat to medium-low.

3. Add a handful of cheese to pot, stirring constantly in a figure-eight motion with a wooden spoon. Let cheese melt, then add more cheese, a handful at a time, until all cheese is completely melted. Keep the fondue at a very gentle simmer.

4. Add lemon juice, kirsch if using, pepper and nutmeg. If mixture is too thick, add a little more wine; if too thin, simmer a bit longer to thicken.

5. Remove from heat and set up on a fondue stand with a burner if desired. Serve with bread cubes.