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1. To prepare brine, combine 3 cups water, sugar, salt, pepper, thyme, and rind in a large bowl; stir until sugar and salt dissolve. Combine water mixture and fish in a 13 x 9–inch baking dish. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Soak wood chips in water 1 hour. Drain well.
3. Prepare grill for indirect grilling, heating one side to medium-high and leaving one side with no heat. Pierce bottom of a disposable aluminum foil pan several times with the tip of a knife. Place pan on heated side of grill; add wood chips to pan.
4. Remove fish from brine; discard brine. Rinse fish with cold water; pat dry with paper towels.
5. Coat grill rack with cooking spray; place on grill. Place fish, skin side down, on unheated side; cover and grill 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork or until desired degree of doneness. Flake fish with fork. Discard skin.