In Astoria, Oregon, smoked fish is big business, and you can taste a variety of styles in the area's smokehouses--many based on old family recipes. Astoria Coffeehouse pairs hot-smoked salmon with its house potatoes and hollandaise sauce.
2 pounds small red potatoes (each about the size of a golf ball), cut into quarters
1 1/2 tablespoons plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic
3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon pepper, plus more to taste
1/2 cup diced white or yellow onion (about 1/4 of a large onion)
1 red, yellow, or green bell pepper (or use a combination), stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-in. chunks
12 ounces hot smoked salmon (sometimes called kippered), in chunks
Finely shredded zest of 1 lemon
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 large egg yolks
14 tablespoons (7 oz.) unsalted butter, cut into small chunks and softened
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
Tiny pinch of cayenne
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar or cider vinegar
8 large eggs
How to Make It
Bake potatoes: Preheat oven to 350°. Put potatoes in a large metal roasting pan and drizzle with 1 1/2 tbsp. oil. Season with paprika, granulated garlic, 3/4 tsp. salt, and 1/2 tsp. pepper and toss to mix; spread into an even layer. Drizzle 3/4 cup water around potatoes, then wrap pan securely with foil, crimping edges. Bake potatoes until tender, 45 to 50 minutes. Remove foil and bake 5 to 10 minutes more to evaporate remaining water.
Make hollandaise sauce: In top of a double boiler or bowl set over (not in) a saucepan of barely simmering water, combine lemon zest and juice and egg yolks. Whisk gently until the mixture just barely begins to thicken to a thin, yogurtlike consistency, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in a chunk of butter. Continue whisking in butter a chunk at a time, whisking constantly and allowing each chunk to be absorbed before adding the next. Do not let mixture boil. (If it does, remove from the heat for a minute or two while still whisking.) Whisk in salt and cayenne, cover, and set aside at back of the stove, off the heat, for up to 15 minutes. Stir before serving.
In a large, heavy frying pan, warm remaining 2 tsp. oil over medium-high heat. Sauté onion and bell pepper until tender and slightly golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Fold in potatoes and cook 2 to 3 minutes, pressing down gently to help the browning process. Fold in salmon and cook 1 to 2 minutes more to warm through. Taste for seasoning and adjust with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, in a wide saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, bring 3 in. of water to a very gentle simmer and add vinegar. Crack 4 eggs, one at a time, just above surface of water. Cover pan and cook 3 minutes, or until whites are just set. With a slotted spoon, remove eggs from poaching water, resting the spoon on a folded paper towel for a moment to drain excess water, then transferring to a plate. Repeat with remaining eggs.
To serve, divide hash among 4 plates. Top each with 2 poached eggs, then spoon some hollandaise sauce over the top.
Sunset Eating Up the West Coast by Brigit Binns; Astoria Coffeehouse & Bistro, Astoria, Oregon