Makes 4 servings

How to Make It

Step 1

Trim and discard stem end and tough green top from leek; cut leek in half lengthwise and hold each half under cold running water, separating layers to rinse well, then thinly slice. In a 10- to 12-inch ovenproof nonstick frying pan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add leek and stir often until limp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

Step 2

Sort through crab and discard any bits of shell. Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to pan; when melted, add crab and stir often just until hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Push to one side of pan.

Step 3

Meanwhile, rinse salmon and pat dry. Holding a sharp knife at a 45° angle, cut flesh crosswise off the skin into 1/8- to 1/4-inch-thick slices; you should have about 12 (see notes). One at a time, lay slices flat and spoon about 1 tablespoon warm crab onto wide end. Starting at that end, roll salmon tightly around crab and place, seam down, in frying pan. Pour vermouth around rolls.

Step 4

Transfer pan with salmon rolls to a 450º regular or convection oven and bake until fish is opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 12 to 15 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer salmon rolls to plates, cover loosely with foil or plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm place.

Step 5

Add cream and reserved leek to pan and boil over high heat until liquid is slightly thickened and reduced to about 1 1/3 cups, 8 to 9 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce equally around salmon rolls and garnish with chives and lemon wedges if desired.

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