Dense, bone-in chicken leg quarters benefit from long, slow cooking over indirect heat. The less intense heat also prevents the sweet glaze from burning.
Customize the glaze according to what you have on hand; try pineapple preserves or apple jelly in place of mango jam, for example, or hot pepper sauce instead of Sriracha. Serve with a simple slaw of cabbage, carrots, lime juice, and sugar.
2/3 cup mango jam
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons Sriracha (hot chile sauce, such as Huy Fong)
Prepare grill for indirect grilling. If using a gas grill, heat one side to medium-high and leave one side with no heat. If using a charcoal grill, arrange hot coals on either side of charcoal grate, leaving an empty space in the middle.
Combine mango jam, chives, vinegar, and Sriracha, stirring until smooth. Reserve 1/4 cup mango mixture; set aside.
Brush oil evenly over chicken. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper.
Carefully remove grill rack. Place a disposable aluminum foil pan on unheated part of grill. Carefully return grill rack to grill. Place chicken on grill rack over unheated part. Brush chicken with about 2 tablespoons remaining mango mixture. Close lid; grill 90 minutes or until a thermometer inserted into meaty part of thigh registers 165°, turning chicken and brushing with about 2 tablespoons mango mixture every 20 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a platter. Drizzle chicken with reserved 1/4 cup mango mixture.
Wine note: This dish's tropical fruit flavors and spicy heat are ideal for gewürztraminer, a popular grape of Germany and France. The mango and apricot flavors of the highly aromatic Hugel gewürztraminer 2006 ($20) echo those of the glaze, while a slightly sweet lychee nut character helps to balance the heat. —Jeffery Lindenmuth