Cut about 1/2 pound ripe Kellogg's Breakfast or similar tomatoes in half crosswise. Press tomatoes, cut side down, through a colander or a coarse wire sieve set over a bowl to collect juice (you'll need about 3/4 cup); discard skin. Mix the 3/4 cup tomato juice, 1/4 cup gin or vodka, 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, about 1/4 teaspoon salt (or to taste), a pinch to 1/8 teaspoon celery seed, and hot sauce to taste. Pour into ice-filled glasses. Garnish with a celery stick or green onion. Sprinkle with fresh-ground pepper.