In a season of big eating, braised fish and vegetables are a welcome relief. This version is company-worthy, too, with chard wrappers around fillets and generous garlic and herbs.
2 bunches Swiss chard (1 1/2 lbs. total)
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves, divided
1 tablespoon minced garlic, plus 2 roughly chopped cloves
Zest of 1 large lemon
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, divided
4 skinned Pacific cod or lingcod fillets (each 6 oz. and 3/4 in. to 1 1/2 in. thick)
1 cup thinly sliced shallots
1/2 pound assorted shiitake, oyster, and/or beech (shimeji) mushrooms, tough ends trimmed; then rinsed and sliced 1/2 in. wide
3/4 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth
How to Make It
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. Choose 9 largest chard leaves and trim stems flush with base. (Save remaining chard for other uses.) Thinly slice stems, cut 1 leaf into ribbons, and set both aside. Cook remaining leaves in boiling water 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer leaves to ice water; let cool. Drain and spread out on kitchen towels.
Arrange 4 leaves horizontally on work surface, bumpy side up. Arrange a second leaf on top of each, perpendicular to the first.
In a medium bowl, combine 3 tbsp. oil, the parsley, 1 tbsp. thyme, minced garlic, the lemon zest, and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper. Add fish and turn to coat.
Set a fish piece at base of each chard set. Fold sides of leaves over fish, then roll to enclose. Brush all over with 1 tbsp. oil (total).
Heat remaining 2 tbsp. oil in a large, deep frying pan over medium-high heat. Sauté shallots until golden, 3 minutes. Add chopped garlic and sauté 1 minute. Add mushrooms, chard stems and ribbons, and remaining 1 tbsp. thyme and 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper; sauté until mushrooms soften, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in broth and bring to a simmer.
Set chard bundles in pan and reduce heat to medium. Cover tightly with lid or foil and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted horizontally into center of fish reaches 115° to 120°, about 7 minutes. Transfer bundles to wide soup plates and spoon mushrooms and pan juices around them.
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