Rinse rice in a colander to remove starch. Pour into a wide heavy pot. "Rice needs room to expand, otherwise it can be goopy and sticky," says Dhalwala. Pour in 2 2/3 cups cold water and let soak 20 minutes.
Bring rice and its soaking water to a vigorous boil, uncovered. Add ghee and salt. Stir rice and reduce heat to low. Let simmer 5 minutes, partly covered: "If you cover it completely now, the starches will bubble over and make a mess of your stove and pot," Dhalwala says.
Cover and let simmer 7 minutes more, then remove from heat and let steam, covered, 8 minutes.