1. In a small saucepan, bring broth to a boil. Add dried porcini, remove from heat, and let stand until soft, about 15 minutes. Lift porcini from broth, squeezing out any extra liquid, and chop finely. Strain broth.

2. In a large frying pan over medium heat, stir bacon often until fat is rendered. Add shallots; stir over medium-high heat until bacon begins to brown, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer shallots and bacon to paper towels. If pan is dry, add about 1/2 tbsp. olive oil. Add fresh mushrooms and chopped porcini; stir often over high heat until liquid has evaporated and mushrooms begin to brown, 12 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375°. Sprinkle chicken on both sides with salt and cracked pepper. Heat butter and 1 tbsp. olive oil in a large, ovenproof frying pan over medium-high heat. Add chicken, skin side down, and cook until well browned on the bottom, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn chicken and transfer pan to oven. Bake just until chicken is no longer pink in center of thickest part, about 20 minutes.

4. Set chicken on a platter and keep warm. Pour wine into pan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to scrape up browned bits. Pour mixture into pan with mushrooms and add porcini-soaking liquid, bacon-shallot mixture, and chopped thyme. Stir often over high heat until almost all liquid has evaporated, 8 to 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Mound ragout on plates, top with chicken, and garnish with thyme sprigs.

Note: Nutritional analysis is per serving.

1. Cook green beans in a large pot of boiling water just until tender-crisp, 7 to 8 minutes. Drain, cool in a bowl of ice water, drain again, and chill until ready to use.

2. Put potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer just until tender when pierced, about 15 minutes. Drain. When they're cool enough to handle, quarter potatoes and put them in a large bowl. Pour vinegar and olive oil over warm potatoes; add the onion, mix gently, and let stand until cool.

3. Meanwhile, make aioli: Finely shred peel of 1 lemon and squeeze enough lemons to get 7 tbsp. juice. In a food processor, whirl mayonnaise, lemon juice, mustard, garlic, 1/2 tsp. salt, and lots of pepper until smooth. Add lemon zest and pulse just to blend.

4. Mix cool potatoes with 1 cup aioli and the capers. Cover; chill until cold, along with remaining aioli.

5. Just before serving, gently stir in green beans, olives, more aioli if salad is too dry, and more salt and pepper to taste.

Note: Nutritional analysis is per serving.

1. Preheat oven to 375°. Lightly butter 2 large baking sheets. On a floured surface with a floured rolling pin, roll out pastry to 16 by 18 in. Cut pastry in thirds lengthwise and in half crosswise. With a wide spatula, transfer the 6 rectangles to baking sheets.

2. Core pears and cut into thin wedges. Arrange, slightly overlapping, on pastry rectangles, leaving a 1 1/2-in. border bare (angle slices if necessary). Warm marmalade in a microwave oven to melt, then brush over pears. Fold border over edge of pears, stretching slightly and pressing down to hold. Brush new edges with egg, then sprinkle turbinado sugar over tarts, especially pastry edges.

3. Bake until pastries are richly browned, 25 to 30 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk crème fraîche and granulated sugar until slightly thickened. Serve tarts warm or cool, with crème fraîche.

Note: Nutritional analysis is per tart.

1. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium heat (350° to 450°; you can hold your hand 5 in. above cooking grate only 5 to 7 seconds).

2. Sprinkle each steak generously with salt and pepper; rub with oil. Grill steaks, covered, turning once, until done the way you like, 10 to 12 minutes for medium-rare.

3. Transfer steaks to a large platter and top each with a slice of herb lemon butter.

Note: Nutritional analysis is per serving, without butter.

1. Whirl ingredients in a food processor until smooth, about 2 minutes.

2. Lay a piece of plastic wrap on a work surface. Using a rubber spatula, scrape butter lengthwise onto plastic. Lift top edge of plastic up and over butter to meet bottom edge of plastic. Roll butter toward you, evening it out into a log about 4 in. long. Twist ends of plastic to seal. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes.

3. Remove plastic and slice off 1/4-in. portions (1 tbsp.) to serve over steaks.

Make ahead: Up to 1 week chilled, or up to 1 month frozen, wrapped in several layers of plastic.

Note: Nutritional analysis is per tbsp.

1. Make rub: Pull off tough outer layers of lemongrass and cut off stem end and coarse leaves. Chop tender core and whirl in a food processor until very finely chopped, about 4 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed. Add ginger, garlic, and shallot and whirl until a paste forms, 2 to 3 minutes more. Add oil and 1/4 tsp. salt; pulse to combine.

2. Sprinkle steaks with remaining 1 tsp. salt; then cover both sides with lemongrass rub. Chill at least 1 hour and up to 6.

3. Make vinaigrette: Heat oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until light golden, stirring gently, being careful not to burn (it will continue to darken off the heat). Pour garlic and oil through a strainer into a small, heatproof mixing bowl. Drain garlic chips on paper towels. After oil has cooled slightly, whisk in lime juice, sugar, and fish sauce. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for high heat (450° to 550°; you can hold your hand 5 in. above cooking grate only 2 to 4 seconds).

4. Make salad: In a 4-qt. saucepan, bring 2 qts. water to a boil and add rice noodles. Cook until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and place in a large mixing bowl. Add carrot, cucumber, cabbage, and chopped herbs and green onions.

5. Oil cooking grate. Grill steaks, covered, using a wide spatula to turn once (you want to keep as much of the crust on the steaks as possible), about 8 minutes total for medium-rare. Transfer steaks to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest at least 5 minutes.

6. Pour dressing over salad and toss thoroughly. Divide salad among 4 bowls. Slice steaks (trying to keep crust on the slices) and arrange over salads. Sprinkle with garlic chips.

*Find in the Asian aisle of most grocery stores.

Make ahead: Rub, vinaigrette, and salad can all be made several hours ahead; toss salad together while steaks grill.

Note: Nutritional analysis is per serving.