Toasted Penne with Chicken Sausage

Oxmoor House
Toasted Penne with Chicken SausageRecipe
Photo: Oxmoor House

 

Dry pasta lends itself to a variety of cooking techniques, so let's toast it, and then cook it risotto-style to build a creamy sauce from the noodles. I learned this method from a chef who was from Togo but apprenticed in italy. It was what the kitchen staff ate for lunch. He called it "toast pasta." Here, it's presented with browned chicken sausage. Chop and add the Spicy Broccoli Rabe for an impressive and very complete meal.

Serves 4 (serving size: 1 2/3 cups)

Ingredients

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6 cups unsalted chicken stock
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 links Italian-style chicken sausage (13 ounces), casings removed
1 cup thinly sliced sweet onion
2 cups (8 ounces) uncooked penne pasta
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon minced Calabrian chiles
1/2 ounce grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Preparation

Hands-on: 55 Minutes
Total: 55 Minutes

First, think risotto, not pasta. Your brain will thank you.

Bring the stock to a simmer in a saucepan. Hold it hot. You'll be using it...like...for... risotto (but for pasta).

Place a high-sided 12-inch skillet (probably your largest, right there, stored underneath everything) on medium heat.

COOK THE SAUSAGE AND ONION

Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the skillet. Add the sausage and onion. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sausage is done and onion is golden brown.

Remove sausage mixture with a slotted spoon, leaving drippings in pan. Set aside.

TOAST THE PENNE

Return the pan to medium heat and add the remaining olive oil. Swirl into an even layer. Give it about 30 seconds. If the oil starts to smoke too fast, turn down the heat--we want this to be a slow, even heat.

Add the dry pasta to the pan. Shake. Toss. Stir. Tumble. Observe the transformation.

The more controlled the heat, the more evenly the pasta will be toasted. This is a matter of taste. I happen to like the pasta to be unevenly toasted, even charred, in places. It makes for a more complex dish, particularly against a slightly bitter vegetable such as broccoli rabe.

When the pasta has transformed in color from its original pale khaki color to something resembling a better beer, about 5 minutes, add the sausage mixture. Sauté for about 2 minutes.

HYDRATE THE PASTA

Now, add a cup of stock. Stir. Stir. You'll see the starch begin to integrate with the pasta water. That's a good thing.

Lower the heat to a slight simmer, and keep stirring.

Reduce the liquid until it is almost fully absorbed, about 5 minutes. It will look like you threw a pat of butter or two into finished pasta.

Add stock 1 cup at a time, stirring all the while and observing for the right amount of reduction.

Repeat this step progressively until you have creamy, saucy, tender pasta (about 30 minutes total).

SEASON AND FINISH

Now add the salt. Stir. You may not use all of the stock if you've simmered slowly. You may need a cup of water or so if you let it bubble more aggressively. Either way, it will be spectacular.

 

If you've opted to do the broccoli rabe thing, add it now, gently stirring and folding to incorporate, until the vegetable is warmed throughout. Taste it.

Finish with lemon juice, chiles, and grated cheese.

Created date

September 2014

Nutritional Information

Calories 355
Fat 13.8 g
Satfat 3.5 g
Monofat 5.4 g
Polyfat 0.9 g
Protein 24 g
Carbohydrate 36 g
Fiber 2 g
Cholesterol 51 mg
Iron 3 mg
Sodium 678 mg
Calcium 77 mg