1. In a skillet, cook 1 cup of the oil and the garlic over low heat until the garlic is pale golden and softened, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic to a bowl and mash with a fork. Let the oil cool slightly, then add the cream.
2. In a saucepan, cover the potatoes with water and cook until tender, about 30 minutes. Let cool slightly, then peel the potatoes and pass them through a ricer or sieve. Alternatively, whip the potatoes with an electric mixer. Add the mashed garlic and the garlic-oil cream. Stir in the trout and season with salt and pepper.
3. Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the brandade in a shallow 1 1/2-quart baking dish. Make shallow depressions in the brandade and spoon the remaining 1/4 cup of oil into the depressions. Bake for about 15 minutes, or until heated through. Sprinkle with the chives and serve warm.
Serve With: Garlic crackers, flatbreads, grissini and thick potato chips.
Wine Recommendation: Stuckey: The 1996 Domaine Ostertag Barriques Pinot Gris from Alsace has the smoky notes you'd want to match the trout. But it's balanced by acidity, which stands up to the brandade's creaminess.Triffon: The refreshing zingy acidity of the 1998 Alan Scott Riesling from New Zealand can cut right through the brandade's rich smoky flavor.