This deeply flavorful, golden stock calls for back and neck bones since they're usually the meatiest, but you can certainly use other chicken bones too. The recipe comes from Tanya Holland, chef-owner of Brown Sugar Kitchen and B-Side Baking Co. in Oakland.
Makes about 3 qts.
1. Preheat oven to 425°.
2. Rinse bones in a colander, then put in a roasting pan and roast until browned, about 45 minutes.
3. Place bones in a large stockpot and add vegetables, peppercorns, and bay leaves. Add 4 qts. water and bring almost to a boil over medium heat, covered, periodically skimming off gray foam. Reduce to a low simmer and simmer 1 hour more. Strain and discard solids.